Opa

I've always been a little afraid of getting caught "cheating" on my favorite Greek restaurant, Kanella, which perhaps explains why it has taken us a little while to make it over to Philly's newest addition to the Greek scene- Opa.  Open for almost a year now, it occupies a coveted spot in the "Midtown Village" area which is chock-full of good eats.

Advertising itself as serving a "modern" take on Greek food, the restaurant is airy and spacious- decorated with classic blue and white colors, wooden tables, and eye-catching lighting techniques.  Tables line the perimeter, circling a rectangular, marble-topped bar.  Elegant but still evoking a bit of Old World charm.

Source

Our waiter was on the stoic side, but the service was virtually flawless.  Water glasses were refilled often from mismatching metallic or ceramic pitchers, again playing on the authentic Greek experience.  We each started out with an appetizer, which came out as they were prepared.  A's spinach croquettes ($8) were first up- a smooth, fried breading encasing a dense cheese and spinach mixture.  A smoky paprika-tinted feta dip enhanced the contrast between crispy and cheesy.  Nothing short of superb.
























A's fiance ordered one of his staples- the fried kalamari ($10).  Wide strips of squid and plenty of tentacles were very lightly fried and tossed in a cracked pepper and spice mixture, accompanied by a subtly spicy but cool  and creamy red pepper and chili aioli.  Again, a great textural contrast.  My favorite part was the addition of large green olives and peppers to the mix- fried and spiced alongside the squid, imparting an almost imperceptible brine-y flavor to the whole dish.

The other two appetizers were salads- knowing my main dish was on the heavier side, I started with the winter salad ($10).  Served warm, the arugula/butternut squash/quinoa base was mixed with sauteed apricots and dates and topped with slivered almonds.  The dressing consisted primarily of vinegar, which sadly stripped a lot of the sweetness from the fruit while the heat of the salad caused the arugula to become soggy and stringy.  The smear of smoky paprika yogurt was similar to that served beneath the spinach croquette, but I wasn't sure how to incorporate it into the salad.  The portion size was also questionable- something that seems to be a common theme in Yelp reviews.  I would recommend the Roasted Beet Salad instead, a much more generous pile of thickly sliced, multi-colored beets, fresh arugula, and crumbled feta.

1/4 sized salad?

Souvlakia skewers of chicken, pork, or vegetables are also available for $3.  The veggie skewer contained a few tender cherry tomatoes, zucchini, peppers, and onion, all with a nice chargrilled appearance.

Our waiter offered to give us some time before our entrees came out, which was a nice change from the typical rushed dining experience.  My rather light appetizer had me anticipating my entree- the Pastitsio ($15), essentially a fancy mac and cheese with the addition of ground beef and a few tomatoes.  The pasta is long and tubular, super smooth with a nice bite.  A bechamel and breadcrumb topping is insanely rich, and the whole mess is cheesy and salty- heavy winter comfort food at its finest.  I would have appreciated a few more tomatoes to lighten it and provide a bit of a contrast to all that cheese and meat- towards the end, I just couldn't continue to barrage my palate with such intensity, and this isn't even a huge dish.

A complemented her fried app with a lighter entree- the tourlou ($13), a vegetarian stew of zucchini, large white beans, okra, and greens in a thin tomato broth, topped with a poached egg.  Very simple- I thought the flavors were a little bland, and A thought it was missing an herbal element- but a decent option for those looking for a meat-free or healthier meal.

The bifteki burger ($13) also made its way to our table- a thick, feta stuffed beef patty served on a brioche bun with a little scoop of a simple tomato salad.  Overly salted "oregano" fries were a bit stingy with their namesake herb.  The chicken entree- consisting of a spice-rubbed chicken breast and a few pieces of cauliflower- seemed over-priced at $17.

A & I split a dessert, choosing the quintessential Greek baklava ($8). Layers of thin phyllo dough and honey encased finely chopped and sugar-drenched walnuts.  I prefer the layers of baklava to soften and meld together, but the phyllo was extra crispy, the bottom layer a dark brown with hints of burnt sugar.  The whole thing was also overly sweet and heavy on the cinnamon.  We definitely enjoyed the small scoop of house-made fig ice cream, complete with large chunks of the chewy fruit.

The whole meal had an overall effect of "hit or miss"- a few disappointments (and some pricing/portion issues) were scattered among a few well-executed, unique renditions of traditional Greek dishes.  I really enjoyed the environment and the dining experience as a whole- instead of cramming in as many diners as possible, the well-spaced tables kept noise levels down to a perfectly reasonable chatter.  Despite the few downsides to the food, I certainly left with a positive attitude that would encourage me to return.

Opa  <-- Annoying website warning.
1311 Sansom Street

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Federal Donuts

One day, many months ago, some friends and I began plotting a visit to a mysterious, rumored restaurant-to-be that would serve us top-notch donuts, fried chicken, and quality coffee- three of our everyone's favorite foods.  After months of waiting, Federal Donuts finally opened.  While trying to decide when to get down to 2nd and Federal, the truth started coming out- the restaurant sold out of everything.  Every day.  Often by 1PM.  I won't lie- my desire to go slowly waned and I became somewhat bitter about it all.  Why would you wave this in my face and then make it impossible to get?

Teeny tiny  Source

Slowly, slowly, the restaurant became ever so slightly less busy (although some days are just as bad as opening week), and a friend and I decided to tempt fate and try our luck during the holiday week.  

We walked through the doors at 12:15 and a very polite stranger gave us a necessary clue- get a number.  60 orders of chicken, every day, no more, no less, so you better get a number to claim yours.  The tiny storefront was packed but I managed to weave my way up and get two numbers (one for me, one for him).. which just so happened to be #59 and #60.  The last two orders.  Thank you, God.

As we waited for our number to be called, we discussed the menu and what we would get.  Federal Donuts literally only sells three things: donuts, coffee, and fried chicken.  No sides, no specials, nothing else.  But honestly, what else can you want?  Since the place opens at 7AM (for the coffee + donuts crowd), they're often sold out of "Fancy Donuts" by lunchtime.  Even though they listed six varieties for the day, they only had one available for us- Chocolate Spicy Peanut ($2).

The ordering process is a bit odd, but also logical.  All of the fried chicken (four pieces per order) begins preparation the day before, with some sort of brine/soak.  At midnight, an unfortunate employee comes in to begin the chicken's first dip in the deep fryer, for a long poach at a low temperature.  The chicken is then dried on racks, to await the witching hour-- or, 11:45AM, when chicken orders begin.

Only a few orders left!

When your number is called, you still have a good amount of time before you actually get to eat.  I'd definitely recommend coming hungry, but not hangry, since the total time from entrance to food can be about an hour.  The lovely staff (literally, the cashier Blake was our BFF by the time we left!) takes your order and 1) your donuts are either bagged (Fancy) or fried (Hot), 2) your coffee is poured, 3) your chicken is plucked off the drying rack and back into the fryer, for a short fry at high heat.

Chicken options

 Since we were the last order of the day, we snagged two of the six counter seats as the rest of the storefront slowly emptied out.  Our first bite was our Fancy donut, since it needed no further prep.  I know I can eat a lot, but just a note- the two of us split all of these.  I simply ordered one of every donut available, which (thankfully?) was only four.  The Chocolate Spicy Peanut converted us to Federal Donuts worshippers fans immediately.  A soft cake donut (the base of all their donuts, I think?) was coated in a thick chocolate ganache and sprinkled with a peanut powder (with very little spice that I noticed).

The donut within was sublime- soft, fluffy, not dry in the least.  The flavor was sweeter than anything I'd want to eat for breakfast, but perfect for a mid-day snack.  After a few minutes, our hot donuts arrived, freshly made to order by the fun donut machine in the back.  Each donut is tossed in it's respective coating, but the underlying flavor of the donuts remained the same.  If you're looking for a lot of flavor variety here, you won't find it, but you also won't mind, since they'll still be the best donuts you've ever eaten.

Vanilla Lavender

Indian Cinnamon

Donuts to be demolished

After long last, our chicken orders were finished- leaving just us and one couple eating at the counter.  The employees began wrapping things up, handing us free leftover donuts and making us extremely happy that our timing worked out so well (last chicken = no crowds, counter seating, free stuff, chats with the staff).  The chicken comes with four pieces- usually a drumstick, a thigh, a breast, and a ... ?  The wings are reserved for Sunday Wingday, so I'm not sure.  However, we were told ahead of time that we might get two thighs instead of a drumstick-- more chicken? No problem.

There are two different preparation styles, dry and wet, both of which have two flavor options.  I chose the dry "Harissa," and my friend chose the wet "Chile Garlic" flavor.  The dry chicken has a hefty, crispy outer layer, exuding just enough grease for extra flavor.  The pieces are sprinkled with a spice concoction (hence, harissa) that gives it a salty, spicy flavor- harissa traditionally includes red chili peppers, garlic, coriander, cumin, and caraway.  Each piece was different, offering white or dark meat in varying thicknesses, giving it a little variety as I ate through the basket.  The thick skin was stuck fast to the juicy, underlying meat, making each bite a mix of crunch and meat.  It's perfect.

The half order is actually pretty hefty- if you're not that hungry, or don't want to eat such a gut-busting meal, I'd suggest sharing.  I used my "I ran 10 miles today," excuse and plowed through the entire thing- and was full for the rest of the day.

I also traded one of my thighs for one of the chili-garlic, which was surprisingly different than my own dry version.  The heavy dose of sauce changes the texture of the skin, making it more like that of a buffalo wing- less crispy and more dense.  The chili gave it good heat, but not in a "I need milk" kind of way.  Next time I go, I'll definitely have to find someone to split two orders with again- one of each sauce style- as now that I've tasted both, I can't imagine not having both!

For the measly price of $9 for an entire half chicken, you're also rewarded with two "sides" - some spicy Japanese-style pickles and a small, plain honey donut.  The pickles were delicious, if not a bit random, but I love pickles so bring them on.  Tangy, sweet and spicy, I almost wish they were slightly more abundant, but with all this food, I doubt I could have fit any more in.

Since I was rather donutted out, I saved my donut for later- apparently you can keep them for a day or so before they get stale.  Nice to know, though, if you come in for chicken later in the day and they are completely out of other varieties, you'll at least get a token one with your order (and if you happen to be the last in the store, they'll probably push some more on you).

I also managed to score a free coffee, which I highly recommend getting (even if you have to pay the small price of $2 for it)- it's some of the best in the city.  On our way out the door, we were sad to see the handmade written-on-a-paper-bag sign, announcing what nobody wants to see.  However, we were quite thankful that we finally made it down to the hugely popular spot, and will definitely return in the future-- with our crowd-fighting faces on.

Federal Donuts
1219 S. 2nd Street
Note: Keep an eye on their Twitter feed the day you go-- announcements about availability are timely!

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Sweet Cheeks Q

Between finding a wedding caterer for A and taking a trip to Memphis to visit friends, it seems like we've been on a serious BBQ kick recently.  I'm spending a few days in Boston- not a place I'd expect to find some good Texas barbecue, but my boyfriend vouched for a newly opened place near Fenway (opinion based on roommate leftovers).

 

The place was pretty busy on a weeknight, but we were offered seats at a large communal high-top table.  They take a no-frills, down-home approach- wood paneling and a heavenly smoky aroma make up the decor, silverware and napkins are delivered in a tin can on the table, and drinks are served in mason jars.  The menu is pretty straightforward- choose your meat, choose your sides, add a biscuit or a side of hush puppies.  We did a little sauce tasting while we waited for our food- the regular is a lightly doctored tomato sauce (boring), the thin vinegar sauce is slightly sweet and has a good kick (if vinegar is your thing), but the hot sauce is the clear winner- a little sweat-inducing heat that balances the tomato and vinegar components well.

 

I ordered the simplest "tray" option (just one type of meat), opting for a half slab of the Berkshire pork ribs ($19).  Sides are broken into two categories- choice of one each from hot and cold.  Everything comes piled on a paper-lined silver tray, with "hot" sides steaming up a mug.  Trays typically are served with a few slices of white bread, pickles, and onions (requisites for sandwich making) but we both subbed in one of their infamous biscuits ($1.50 extra, or $10 for 4).

I honestly didn't know where to start, so I dug in to the Cita's broccoli and cheese casserole.  Whole chunks of lightly steamed broccoli are drenched in a thin cream-butter-and-cheese sauce and what seemed like toasty biscuit chunks for good measure.  I liked that it was creamy like a soup but still maintained crunchy, satisfying bites of broccoli.  My cold side was the farm salad- I wasn't expecting anything exciting here, but Sweet Cheeks brought their A-game: a flavorful combination of arugula, brussels sprouts, chopped hazelnuts, and purple grapes tossed in a barely there olive oil dressing and topped with shaved Pecorino Romano.  Yes, I could eat that salad every day. 

 

I haven't even gotten to the good part-  the ribs.  Six of 'em to a half-rack, with a brilliant red color and meaty ham-like texture.  The meat isn't falling off the bone, but this provides a nice amount of chewiness.  I was impressed with how much meat there was- I could only get through two of the smoke-infused ribs before calling it quits (so lame).  Of note- I typically love my ribs slathered in sauce, but these guys were perfect as is.

My meat-loving boyfriend snagged the most classic meat options- pulled pork and brisket- ordering the double "Big Cheeks" tray: your choice of any two meats for $24.  The brisket was unlike any I have ever experienced-  thick slabs of marbled "Great Northern" beef that melt in your mouth.  I'm used to chewing my brisket, but that's not necessary here.  I was wary of the thick strip of fat across the top (and around the sides...) but this was butter, not gristle.  As for the pork- I'm a bit of a pulled pork snob, but even this had me completely in awe of the Sweet Cheeks 'que techniques.  The meat was shredded, tender, and with an incredibly concentrated meatiness. Most impressive is that this flavor comes entirely from the pork- they make it devoid of any sauce.  A few drops of hot sauce amped up the heat without masking the smokiness.

The biscuits were another highlight- massive balls of buttery, flaky carbs with a crispy outer surface and pillow-y innards. Can't beat that.

We brought enough food home to eat again for dinner the next night- and everything was just as tasty as leftovers (trust me, you WILL have leftovers).  Although the prices were a little higher than I'm used to paying, the quality (and quantity...) of each component of the tray completely justified any residual sticker-shock.  The owners of this place really did their research well- though I've never had the "real thing," my boyfriend spent a summer in San Antonio and begrudgingly admits that Sweet Cheeks might top his list.  It definitely tops mine.

Sweet Cheeks Q
Boston, MA

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Sbraga

To kick off the Christmas weekend, we made plans to celebrate with a good dinner out.  With my parents visiting for the holidays, we wanted to choose a restaurant that would cater to a variety of palates and would offer a fun dining experience.  Since there are seemingly three dozen new-ish spots open in town, we also decided to cross one of them off of our list, and settled on Sbraga.  Even though we like Top Chef, we never considered Kevin (Season 7) one of our favorite contenders.  However, he has quite a good reputation, and has been getting lots of good buzz since the opening of his first restaurant here in Philly.

Chef Sbraga works the kitchen seemingly nonstop Source 

Prime time reservations were impossible to snag, so we ended up going a little later than I would have liked.  The fixed price menu (either $110 for ten courses or $45 for four) is a bit of a novelty to us, but I actually really liked basing my decisions solely on what I was in the mood for, and not on price.  While perusing the options, we were each served a massive flaky popover.  Even though it's hollow, it's still a hefty start to the meal, and likely the best complimentary bread I've ever had-- fresh out of the oven, warm and buttery, with a hint of truffle oil.  After my dad's first bite, he attempted to steal the rest of ours and pile them on his plate-- nice try.

Just try not eating the entire thing.

Two notes about service: 1) When we were first seated, our table had white linen napkins.  After we were seated, the napkins were taken away, and replaced with dark ones.  Still haven't figured out why.  2) Our initial "server" came to explain the menu, but he seemed a bit lost and stumbled frequently.  He also spoke so quietly that none of us could really understand his explanations (even after asking him to speak up).  A few minutes later, another server came to take care of us, and walked us through the menu again, and then stuck with us throughout the night.  We're also still pondering this one.

We chose to do the smaller tasting menu, which gives you options at each point.  We all tried to order something different, which wasn't as hard as I expected- sometimes, we all legitimately wanted different items.  My choice for the first course was the eggplant terrine, beautifully constructed with layers of eggplant, roasted red peppers, and goat cheese.  It was topped with a tiny spoonful of crushed black garlic, which was a foreign flavor to me- still not sure if I'm a fan, as it's rather bitter.  This was a delicious and thankfully light start to my meal.

My dad chose to get the beet dish, which I didn't try but just have to comment on one of the menu-listed ingredients for this dish: soil.  Soil?  Somewhere I had read online (perhaps in one of the most recent reviews?) that this simple plate had pumpernickel crumbs, but I still found it odd that this isn't explained whatsoever on the menu.  Quirky- and my dad said it was the best soil he'd ever had, but I can definitely see this creating confusion.

The other two chose the foie gras soup- which I can definitely see becoming a Sbraga staple (many of the menu items change seasonally).  The thick, creamy soup is poured tableside (into an awesome bowl-- we all loved the variety of dishes our food came on) served over an onion and rose petal relish.  For those of you (like us) that don't love the flavor of rosewater, don't be scared-- there isn't even a hint of it here.  Just the rich flavor of pureed duck liver (which I swore I wouldn't eat again anytime soon..).

After licking our plates (and bowls) clean, we waited a reasonable amount of time for the second course.  The pacing of the meal was spot on, which was actually one of my favorite parts of the experience, since it gave us time to rest and carry on conversation between courses.  The second course is seafood based, and J immediately laid claim to the "Fish n' Chips" option, a beautiful plate of Indian-spiced cauliflower remoulade serving as a base for a small handful of crispy fries and lightly battered, fried fish (unfortunately, I don't know which species).  I think J wanted to order this as her third course as well.

Bad picture, good food.

My dad chose the artic char, a fish similar in texture and flavor to the more common salmon.  While he found the flavors a bit underwhelming, the beauty of this plate is too much not to share- the thick, sweet (pomegranate or beet?) syrup held firm to the plate while the thin celery root puree filled in the spaces.

The menu really spans a wide array of flavors from around the world, which is well represented by my fish choice, the black cod served with spiced lentils and a bok choy "chip", as well as a pile of spicy kim chee'd veggies.  The flavors of each part were intense, but complimented each other without competing.  The 2" cube of cod was coated in a tangy, barbecue-like sauce that I couldn't get enough of.

The third course is the meat-based dish (and while there is a vegetarian option, I just.. wouldn't) and my dad ordered the already infamous meatloaf.  Both of the servers who explained the menu to us made a point to emphasize this dish, which was a superb recommendation.  The meatloaf contains zero bread, which maximizes the meatiness.  The tomato-bacon marmalade was like a thick, savory icing to the meat cake.  We all laughed at the mini pile of potatoes (it was like a doll-sized serving), but by the end, I think we were happy not to have huge portions- the richness of the food combined with the multiple courses leaves you stuffed.

My mom ordered what I consider the most approachable dish on the menu- buffalo chicken.  I had low expectations, but Sbraga delivered on this bar food favorite.  Three pieces of bone-in chicken were fried in a slightly spicy batter- and I won't lie, this is some serious fried chicken.  I'm not sure of Sbraga's background, but he could easily lead a Southern style restaurant, based on this dish alone.  The other components of classic buffalo wings- the sauce, the blue cheese, and the celery and carrots- were all present as well, each in a unique form.  Chunky blue cheese crumbles lay under the chicken- some of the best, smoothest blue cheese I've ever had.  A shaved celery and carrot salad completes the plate, and a tiny bottle of a thin, vinegar-y riff on buffalo sauce accompanied the dish (I think my little trial taste was the only time the bottle was used-- it's unnecessary with the explosion of flavors already present here).

My plate consisted of a breakfast classic- sausage gravy, a soft, flour-y Southern style biscuit (like I was saying...), and a fried egg, all over a bit of potato-artichoke hash.  This is really the breakfast (and lunch, and dinner) of my dreams- perfect for any meal, rich and decadent without being overwhelming.

J ordered the double lamb dish, which pairs a piece of fatty lamb belly and a perfectly cooked bone-in lamb chop with a sweet cinnamon spiked oatmeal.  Both pieces of meat were fantastic- there were a few comments that the chop didn't even taste like lamb (only the slightest hint of that earthy, gamey flavor).  The oatmeal base, however, was not the best accompaniment- sweet when we wanted salty.  I'm a master of savory oatmeal breakfasts, so I was particularly turned off- but one wrong turn in a meal full of rights is more than acceptable.

The four course tasting comes with dessert, although we've heard rumor you can skip dessert and leave for just $35 a head.  The desserts are the masterpieces of Sbraga's wife, and while they showcase creativity and use only the best ingredients, there was something missing that we couldn't quite put our finger on.

Caramel Apple Mille-Feuille

Buttermilk Panna Cotta with Cranberry Relish, Streusel and Salted Caramel Gelato

Dark Chocolate with Mascarpone and Coffee Granita (Shaved Ice)

The highlight for all of us (minus my mom who somehow lacks the coffee-loving gene) was the coffee granita, reminiscent of the refreshment of a deep, dark iced coffee in the dead of summer.  The pairing with the creamy, slightly sweet mascarpone and the bitter dark chocolate was everything you'd want in a dessert.  However, while it was a perfect combination, it comes down to three delicious ingredients- how challenging can that be?

We're glad Sbraga is thriving- for some reason, I'm scared that the Symphony House space might be eternally cursed after Craig LaBan's 0 bell rating of former occupant Chew Man Chu.  Some have noted that the location is only convenient for the theater/Kimmel Center crowd, but it's just a measly three blocks off the central line of Walnut Street.  As for us, we'd love to go back to Sbraga and sit at the counter right off the kitchen- the dining experience further expanded to include entertainment.

Sbraga
440 S. Broad Street

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